Welcome to my blog: this is the story of our adventures in India: the wonderful, the strange, the downright bizzare & the not-so-nice. So sit back & enjoy the ride as we take you on a journey across the sub-continent (& everywhere in-between).
I
forgot to mention that last Saturday, me, Tania & a group from the High
Commission went to see the second day of the Fourth test.
I’d
never been to a test match...ever !! So...to see a test match in India was a
hell of an experience.
I
have photos from the day that I took on someone else’s camera (why someone else’s
camera – see the next paragraph) & as soon as I get a copy of them, I’ll
post them up onto the blog.
The experience
starts with trying to get into the ground. If you look on the back of the
ticket, the list of things you CAN’T take onto the ground is long &
distinguished. The list is not limited
to but includes: cameras (are you serious !!), firearms, ammunition (I feel so
much safer for that !!), food, beverages & (apparently) coins in the wallet
!!
Somehow,
one of the guys in the group was allowed to bring in his little compact camera which
he gave to me to take some photos. I’m spewing that I couldn’t bring in my
kick-arse Nikon – I would’ve got some good photos.
The
seats we’d gotten were very well located up in the corporate stand & that
area remained in the shade until about 2pm.
The
cricket was pretty good – we expected India to bowl Australia out within the first
15 minutes but they managed to see out at least 30 minutes.
It
was amazing to see the crowd’s reaction to Sachin Tendulka & everything he
did. He fielded over by the boundary: everytime he walked back to the crowd or
acknowledged them, this huge roar would erupt from them. If he touched the
ball, the roar got louder.
The
crowd even pushed their way to the barriers during lunch & cheered him on
as he ate his lunch.
When
he walked onto the field to bat in India’s first innings, I can’t describe the
roar from everyone in the stadium – you’ll just have to watch the video (I’ll
upload it when I can). It was simply amazing.
The
day’s play was good – we nearly managed to bowl India all out.
For
Tania, the day finished off on a high – she & Gary took the lift down to
the ground level & who happened to hop in the lift with them: Shane Warne
!!
Both
of us were exhausted by the end of it all but it was a great day out.
Today (27th March 2013) is the Hindu festival of “Holi”.
Also
known as the “Festival of Colours”, it’s the day where you wear your whitest (throwaway)
whites & prepared to be bombarded (literally) by water bombs & coloured
powder (hopefully non-toxic).
At the end of it all, you come out looking like
someone’s bad psychedelic, technicolour dream.
The
High Commission hosted a Holi party on the HOM’s back lawn yesterday.
We
did have a designated Holi paint area where if you walked into the space, you
were fair game.
As the afternoon progressed, however, the paint area kinda grew to
encompass the entire back lawn & pretty soon, everyone was covered in paint
to varying degrees.
It
was alot of fun as the photos show:
Ed (L) & Nicole (C) will be the control subjects - see how colourful they get
Starting to see a bit of powder on the face
Now it starts getting ugly
Chris looks like he's having fun
Yes !! Water pistols are an essential part of Holi
Alexis (from the first photo) at the height of the colourfest
Our DHOM (L) lasted 1 minute before being bombarded
Even the visiting IT techs got into the spirit of things
Poor Anna looks like she doesn't know what's hit her
Caitlin & Kate
These two managed to escape relatively unscathed
These two showed after we'd run out of coloured powder
Nicole at the end of the afternoon - this photo sums it up !!
Today’s post contains a series of articles
cover a variety of topics. The first is from “The Diplomat” website, the next two
are from “The Guardian & the last is from the “Der Spiegel” website:
EBG6NYSM4VCJOn March 21, India voted in favor of a resolution
at the UN Human Rights Council calling for Sri Lanka to conduct an independent
and credible investigation into alleged war crimes. The UN believes that as
many as 40,000
people may have been killed in the final stages of a bloody, 26-year civil
war, which ended in 2009 with the defeat of the LTTE (Liberation Tigers of the
Tamil Eelam, more commonly known as the Tamil Tigers).
A report
released by the UN in 2011 issued a damning indictment of the Sri Lankan
government’s actions during the conflict and called on Colombo to “issue a
public, formal acknowledgment of its role in and responsibility for extensive
civilian casualties in the final stages of the war.”
India’s vote against Sri Lanka comes days after the
Dravida Munnetra Kazhagam (DMK) party withdrew from a coalition led by the
ruling United Progressive Alliance government. Although it is historically rare
for foreign policy issues to dominate the domestic political discourse in
India, this convention has increasingly been challenged in recent years. Though
foreign
policy was long the preserve of the prime minister’s office and to a lesser
degree the External Affairs Ministry, it is becoming decentralized, as seen in
India’s vote against Sri Lanka.
There is a public perception that foreign policy is
elitist, which stems from the belief that issues pertaining to foreign powers
are too remote to matter in the day-to-day lives of ordinary people. For much
of India’s history, that may well have been the case.
The policies of Jawaharlal Nehru, India’s first
prime minister and one of the main proponents of the principle of non-alignment – a doctrine that
defined Indian foreign policy during much of the Cold War – went unquestioned
for decades. However, the end of the Cold War and collapse of the Soviet Union
forced India to question many of the ideals underpinning Nehru’s non-alignment
philosophy, as New Delhi was forced to confront a multi-polar world.
Yet, despite the contours of a globalizing world,
Indian foreign policy making remained largely confined to New Delhi. The
executive’s authority on foreign matters remained a constant during the 1990s
and well into the new millennium.
This might explain the astonishing level of
consensus seen in Indian foreign policy throughout that time, irrespective of
the stance of the ruling party or coalition at a given time, particularly since
1991.
India’s relationship with Israel
is a case in point. Every Indian government since 1992,
irrespective of its political creed, has engaged with both Washington and Tel
Aviv. Foreign policy has consistently been one of the few areas where strong
political consensus has cut across party lines.
However, the era when governments could make
crucial foreign policy decisions without public debate may well be over. For
one, along with the rise of India’s international profile is the growing
influence of an increasingly educated and influential middle class with a
global perspective. Then there is the ever-growing Indian diaspora – most
notably in the U.S., UK, Canada and the Persian Gulf – which sends billions of
dollars in foreign remittances to India. Electoral vote-banks or not, these two
groups are becoming
constituencies that no Indian government can ignore.
India’s fragmented politics and the era of
coalition governments has also ensured the decentralization of foreign policy
making. Politicians must increasingly sell foreign policy to the masses. The
Congress Party, heading the UPA government, had to cloak a landmark civil
nuclear cooperation agreement signed between India and the U.S. in 2008 as a roti,
kapda, makan (bread, clothes and housing) issue – which would help
provide electricity to powerless Indian villages. For his part, Omar
Abdullah, now the chief minister of Jammu and Kashmir, delivered a stirring
speech in 2008 to the Indian parliament, seeking to dispel the notion that the
India-U.S. nuclear deal was directed against Muslims.
“I see no reason why I, as a Muslim, have to fear a
deal between India and the United States of America,” Abdullah
said. “This is a deal between two countries. It is a deal between, we hope,
two countries that in the future will be two equals.”
There was more to come. Addressing the speaker of
the Lok Sabha, India’s lower house of parliament during a no-confidence motion
against the UPA government, Abdullah added,
“Sir, the enemies of Indian Muslims are not the Americans, and the enemies of
the Indian Muslims are not ‘deals’ like this. The enemies of Indian Muslims are
the same enemies that all the poor people of India face – poverty and hunger,
unemployment, lack of development and the absence of a voice.”
For the poor, those enemies are unlikely to be
vanquished any time soon. But a more open policymaking process seems at least a
step in the right direction.
'If girls look sexy, boys will rape.' Is this what Indian
men really believe?
A shocking series of brutal attacks has led to a
national debate on sexual violence. The Observer asked a group of young men in
Goa for their views. The talk revealed a disturbing mindset
A woman waits at a food stall
in Delhi. Many in the country say women should not be allowed out at night on
their own. Photograph: Kevin Frayer/AP
"Rape is a big, big problem. It
starts with the woman. They drive the man fucking crazy." Papi Gonzales
leans back in his chair and surveys the other young Indian men around the table
in his beach bar, seeking approval. They nod in agreement, eager to make their
own points. "When the girls look sexy and the boys can't control
themselves, they are going to rape. It happens," said Robin Shretha, one
of the waiters.
According to government figures, a rape takes place in
India every 21 minutes. The number of reported rapes rose by 9% in 2011 to
24,000. Yet conviction rates are falling, down to 26% in 2011.
The recent cases have led to worldwide outrage, and
demonstrations led by women have filled the streets of major cities. But what
do India's young men think? The Observer gathered a group in the
western region of Goa to hear their views. They were: Abhijit Harmalkar, 28, a
driver; his brother, Avinash, 24, a factory worker; Bhivresh Banaulikar, 26, an
auditor; Brindhavan Salgaonkar, 20, a factory worker; Robin Shretha, 21, a
waiter; and Papi Gonzales, 32, the owner of the bar.
One word to describe their views would be
"unreconstructed". Others would be "alarming" and
"frightening". Plenty of Indian men have joined the recent
demonstrations. Plenty of Indian men are committed to the cause of women's
rights. But this discussion revealed the deep moral conservatism of some young
Indian males, coupled with confusion about gender roles in a society where
economic modernisation is outstripping social attitudes.
We are getting the blame, these men claimed, while no one
is paying attention to the actions of young women, who need to understand that
they should not be out on their own at night. "Our culture is
different," said Abhijit Harmalkar. "Girls are not allowed outside
after six [pm] because anything can happen – rape, robbery, kidnaps. It is the
mentality of some people. They are putting on short and sexy dresses, that's
why. Then men cannot control themselves."
Banaulikar nodded. "I have a sister. If she is out
late at night, then I would be worried. After 7pm I would be worried. Men can't
control themselves."
The men sit around a table in a bar overlooking the
Arabian Sea. It is an idyllic scene: coconut palms edge the beaches, the sea is
a deep blue, the temperature in the mid-30s. It is mid-morning, but already
there are a few western tourists wandering along the beach – the men bare-chested
in shorts, many of the women in bikinis. Groups of local men watch the women,
discreetly taking pictures with their phones. When night falls, nearby bars
will be packed with young people. This bar is only a couple of miles from where
the body of British teenager Scarlett Keeling was found five years ago.
The 15-year-old had been raped and murdered. An on-off court
case against two men has dragged on for years. No one believes that those
responsible will face justice, and there appears to be no impetus among those
in authority in the state to bring it to a conclusion. The truth is that in
India there are many people who think a 15-year-old western girl out drinking
in bars in the early hours of the morning was asking for trouble.
This collection of young men is a small, random sample,
and plenty of Indians would find their views abhorrent. Foreigners thinking of
visiting India – particularly young women – will find these views not only
repulsive, but dangerous. Though this is a small sample, it is telling that
they speak so openly, and it is clearly the case that other young Indian men
would express similar thoughts – even if large numbers of their compatriots
would find them shocking.
Sometimes the women lead the men on, those around the
table said. Sometimes men are frustrated that women who have earlier flirted
with them then ignore their advances. This is not how they themselves behave,
but this is what happens, they said. "The Indian girls who come here, they
don't behave, maybe there are some boys and the rape happens," said Shretha.
"But sometimes they are not behaving sexy, not talking to the boys, and
the boys are angrier and they think, 'I'll rape'.
"If they find them in a blind place, they are going
to combine together with friends and they are going to rape them. If they [the
women] talk nicely, they are OK. If they behave rudely, then they [the men] are
going to be angry."
This group, while expressing these views, still maintain
that the idea that women are second-class citizens in India is out of date.
Everyone is equal now, they said, with women going out to work and making money
too. "Before, for many years, girls were neglected, boys got
opportunities. Girls did not get opportunities, but now it is equal. It is a
new generation, no difference between girls and boys," said Shretha. Their
notion of "equality" is impossible to square with the casualness with
which they understand and even expect young men to visit sexual abuse on women.
The trouble is, they claim, that this new assertiveness
among women is causing confusion for the men. "The main thing is the bank
balance. Women are in love with the bank balance," said Gonzales.
"And a nice shiny car. Then everything is OK,"
said Salgaonkar. "You should not blame the boys every time," said
Banaulikar. "If you have four girls, sometimes one is a prostitute
type," said Avinash Harmalkar. "The others don't know their friend is
a prostitute. It is common in college life," he claimed.
Such attitudes are not unusual. Abhijit Mukherjee, the
son of president Pranab Mukherjee, himself an MP with the ruling Congress
party, dismissed protesters after the Delhi rape as "dented and painted
women". And religious guru Asaram Bapu suggested that the victim was not
blameless, asking provocatively: "Can one hand clap?" Maybe if there
were more prostitutes, there would be fewer problems for young women, the men
suggested. "It keeps men happy," said Gonzales. "In Bombay,
there are 20 places that I go sometimes. There are hundreds of places there. In
Goa there are no places like that. And when we see the goras
[whites] showing their bodies off, the Goan people react badly."
One answer, said the men, would be for the women's
families to be stricter, preventing them going out at night. That is the
traditional solution to keeping girls safe. "In Indian culture, our
generation has grown up with respect for families," said Gonzales.
"That's why we are scared of our parents. We behave as we are told to
behave. Mum and Dad shout 'do this, do that' and we listen. But in the next
generation everything has changed."
"Parents should stop the girls going out late at
night," said Avinash Harmalkar. "Parents should set them free to live
their own life, but parents should be strict about late nights, then this kind
of crime will not happen." None of the men could understand why the
medical student and her boyfriend had taken a bus in Delhi alone at night, the
bus on which they were attacked. "At night-time no one goes in the
bus," said Salgaonkar.
"You don't go as a single boyfriend and girlfriend
in a late bus at 8.30pm. At that time anything can happen, because no one is in
the bus," said Harmalkar. As for men who assault women on crowded buses,
which happens frequently, they do so because they have the safety of numbers,
he said, and because they don't understand that what they are doing is wrong.
"They can't have a girlfriend. If they had a girlfriend they wouldn't act
like this. In fact, if they had a sister they would not do this," said
Salgaonkar. It was not the rape itself that provoked such anger, he said, but
the violence. "The boys who raped her also violated her with a steel rod.
If it was only sex, they would not have been so angry."
No one around the table had a simple solution, though
Banaulikar said that the only way to stop rape was to keep young people busy
and off the streets. "In my job I am always busy," he said. "I
don't have time to do these things. If you keep them busy, you can stop them.
It is the jobless men who are doing these things.
"If they see others doing this stuff, they copy
them. It is the same for the girls. In the daytime she is a good girl, but no
one knows what she does at night, and she persuades her friends to do the
same." Parents should teach the difference between right and wrong, they
said, and also schools.
Then there was the world of higher education, seen by
these men as little more than dens of iniquity. "College life is
different," said Avinash Harmalkar. "Anything can happen there. Girls
and boys know everything about sex. The girls go from boy to boy."
Banaulikar added: "Some girls are doing things for
money. They use the boy and then throw them away. So some boys are taking
revenge. If someone wants to have sex, no one can stop them. And if you do not
want to have sex, people will say you are not a man."
For anyone interested in the promotion of women's rights
in India, this was an alarming, even frightening discussion. Last week the
lower house of parliament passed new rape laws, which include the death penalty
for the most extreme cases, and introduced punishments for stalking and
assaulting women. But the all-male conversation by the sea in Goa ended on a
note that did not offer much hope for the thousands campaigning on the streets
for an end to sexual violence.
"Nothing will be changed," said Avinash
Harmalkar. "Things like this happen every day and nothing will be changed.
Children in Trilokpuri in the
Indian capital New Delhi. Photograph: David Levene
One in six urban Indians lives in slum housing that is cramped, poorly
ventilated, unclean and "unfit for human habitation", according to
the country's first complete census of its vast slum population. In other words, nearly 64 million Indians
live in a degrading urban environment very similar to the shantytowns portrayed
in the Oscar-winning movie Slumdog
Millionaire.
The first-ever nationwide report – prepared from data
collated for the 2011 national census – looks at urban slums in around 4,000
towns across India. (A slum was defined as a
settlement of at least 60 households deemed unfit for human habitation, but the
report does not cover every town and city in this vast country.)
India's Planning Commission has recommended that urban
clusters with as few as 20 households should be classed as slums. "We will
be analysing the census data on the basis of the new definition also,"
said Dr C Chandramouli, the registrar general. "This is likely to increase
the number of slum households across the country."
While the report described open sewers and poverty, it
also shows that many residents own mobile phones and televisions in their
shacks and have overcome a lack of infrastructure by rigging up elaborate –
mostly illegal – electricity supplies.
Mumbai has the largest absolute population of slum dwellers:
41% of its 20.5 million people. But in percentage terms, India's commercial
capital has been overtaken by two other megacities: the bustling port city of
Vishakapatnam on the Bay of Bengal (43% of its 1.7 million inhabitants) and the
central Indian city of Jabalpur, birthplace of the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi (42%
of its 1.3 million people).
"This kind of shift could be due to the displacement
of the working class," said PK Das of the Nivara Hakk housing rights group
in Mumbai. "In the latest census, for instance, some municipal wards in
central Mumbai dominated by the working class have actually shown a decline in
the total population. This is because industries are creating fewer jobs in
Mumbai, while smaller cities are attracting workers in the informal
sector."
The report reveals another fact that provides a bleak
vision of India's future urbanisation. Ten towns with a population of around
5,000 have been categorised as "all-slum towns". These are
concentrated in four states: Jammu & Kashmir, Uttar Pradesh, West Bengal
and Sikkim.
"Unlike in the past, state governments are no longer
involved in creating affordable urban housing for the poor," said Das.
"After 1991, with economic liberalisation, this task has been left to the
private sector. But housing for the poor is not profitable, so the private
sector doesn't see it as a good investment."
Das pointed out that the slum rehabilitation programme in
Mumbai involving the private sector has created only 137,000 houses in the last
22 years.
New Delhi, the capital, had a relatively low 15% of
households in slums, while the big cities of Kolkata and Chennai had 30% and
29% respectively. Bengaluru, a high-tech centre, had only 9%.
Nationwide, more than one-third of slum homes surveyed
had no indoor toilets and 64% were not connected to sewerage systems. About
half of the households lived in only one room or shared with another family.
However, 70% had televisions and 64% had mobile phones.
Maqbool Khan, 54, has lived in the seaside Geeta Nagar
slum in South Mumbai for the last 40 years. The shantytown is close to posh
apartment complexes inhabited by millionaires and senior officials. Khan runs a
tailoring shop. He says that there are not enough municipal facilities for
Geeta Nagar's 2,000 households.
"I feel embarrassed to tell you how we
survive," he said in a telephone interview.
"We have to queue up for hours even to go to the toilet,
so we often end up doing it in the sea. The government keeps promising to shift
us to proper housing, but we remain stranded here."
Plenty
for Few: India's Economic Miracle Bypasses
Poor
By
Wieland Wagner
Unlike
in China, India's economic miracle has failed to benefit the poor. Instead, the
rich are getting richer in this notoriously divided land, and government
support fails to reach those in need.
"I'm Princess Shahnaz
Husain," India's cosmetics diva says with a hoarse voice as she welcomes
guests to her palatial villa in New Delhi and kindly invites them to sit down.
Her brown-toned hair is teased into a fiery mane, and her striped red robe
glitters just as golden as her high-heeled sandals.
Just a few moments earlier, it
seemed unimaginable that anybody could stand out against the florid splendor of
this Indian living room. Gilded porcelain swans sparkle under glass coffee
tables on Persian carpets. A ceramic dog crouches with its puppies in front of
the fireplace. The walls gleam with brightly-colored paintings of floral
arrangements in massive, ornate golden frames.
Yet, oddly enough, she alone
dominates the entire scene: Princess Shahnaz, who rules over more than 400
beauty salons in India and around the world. Her name adorns beauty creams and
shampoos made with ayurvedic medicinal plants, and she sells her products
through upmarket stores from London to Tokyo -- in packaging embellished with
her image from younger days.
Shahnaz won't reveal her age,
but for over four decades she and her company have embodied the Indian economic
miracle. Although she grew up in affluent circumstances -- her father was a
judge and her mother was allegedly a princess in a royal dynasty -- she owes
her commercial success to the rise of India's middle class.
Her customers are primarily
nouveau riche Indians. Shahnaz recently began to offer them a miracle cream
that is supposed to stop the skin from aging. "That will be a hit,"
she says.
Shahnaz belongs to India's
Muslim minority but, like her fellow Indians who are Hindus, she is making
provisions for her life after death by performing good deeds that benefit the
poor.
When she is chauffeured through
the streets of New Delhi in her silver Rolls-Royce, beggars rush up to the
vehicle at each intersection. "They are, of course, familiar with my
car," she says "and I always have a few rupees on hand for
them."
Recently, she says, she helped
a man with no legs begging in front of a traffic light. She arranged a job for
him in one of her cosmetics production plants. "I found him a job as a
watchman at the gate where he can sit," she says.
Shahnaz tells many such
stories. For instance, there is the tale of a female road worker with dark
spots on her face, who waited in front of her villa every morning until Shahnaz
took pity on her. She gave the poor woman a cream for skin spots -- a product
that would be prohibitively expensive for the average Indian. What's more, she
financed her education in one of her cosmetics schools.
Even now, during the cold time
of the year, the rich philanthropist says she has wool blankets placed at the
entrance to her villa for the shivering poor. She sounds as if she were moved
by her own efforts to help those less fortunate than herself.
She doesn't see poverty as a
specifically Indian problem, though. "There are beggars everywhere in the
world," she says, "even in London and Paris."
Growing Prosperity, Persistent
Poverty
An analysis by the Organization
for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) finds that the blatant gap
between poor and rich is growing in India almost faster than anywhere else on
the globe. Although the world's largest democracy amended its constitution in
1976 to declare that it was a socialist state, the fact of the matter is that
the country is failing to give the huddled masses a fair share of the country's
economic miracle.
This is one of the main
differences between India and China, its rival up-and-coming Asian economic
powerhouse: In China, some 13 percent of the population subsists on the
equivalent of less than $1.25 (€0.97) a day, while one-third of all Indians
have to make do with the same amount.
Experts at the University of
Oxford have concluded that the level of poverty in the central Indian state of
Madhya Pradesh is roughly equivalent to that in the Democratic Republic of the
Congo (DRC), the Central African country that has been ravaged by years of
civil war. To make matters worse, if the comparison is restricted to nutrition,
Madhya Pradesh is significantly worse off than the DRC.
Critics such as Atul Kohli, a
political scientist who teaches at Princeton University, contend that India's
rapid economic growth, which began in the 1980s, has not led to a decline in
poverty. Kohli's 2012 book, "Poverty Amid Plenty in the New India,"
has attracted worldwide attention.
Shankar Singh is one of those
who dreams of a better life in vain. The 53-year-old works a few blocks from
Shahnaz' residence as a security guard at Panchsheel Park, an enclave for the
rich surrounded by walls and gates. He protects the villa of a Sikh
businessman.
Shankar's boss has amassed a
fortune selling sinks and toilets, but his security guard still lives with his
wife and six children in an impoverished hovel right behind the gated community
-- beyond the walls, where stray dogs and cows rummage through the refuse of
the rich.
This is where the gardeners,
cooks, chauffeurs and chambermaids of the nouveau riche live. Their
neighborhood may be in one of Delhi's better slums, but they live in constant
fear that they will slide back into abject poverty if they get sick or are
fired. According to the results of the OECD analysis, informal jobs without any
protection against dismissal are more prevalent in India than in virtually any
other emerging economy.
Longing for Home
It is early afternoon, and
Shankar is resting in his windowless dwelling in preparation for the night
shift. He is wearing the same dark baseball cap he wears on duty. A small Hindu
altar hangs on the wall. Shankar worships the god Shiva, the "auspicious
one," who brings good fortune.
Shankar and his family are
still waiting for their luck to change. They do not even have a washbasin. He
and his sons wash up in front of the door every morning, while his wife and
daughters somehow bathe inside. Water only flows between 3:00 and 6:00 a.m., so
that's when all the neighbors quickly fill up buckets and pots.
When Shankar moved to Delhi
from the province of Uttar Pradesh 32 years ago, he dreamed of a better life.
He hasn't been back to his home village for seven years now because he can't
afford to travel there. Shankar earns 8,000 rupees a month, or the equivalent
of €110. He pays 2,000 rupees a month in rent, and lives off the rest.
He can't even honor the Hindu
gods with a modest display of fireworks at Diwali, the Hindu festival of
lights. Instead, he gazes in amazement at Panchsheel Park, where well-heeled
Indians stage increasingly extravagant firework displays year after year.
Shankar says he longs to see
his relatives back in his village. And while he talks about the mustard fields,
which are currently blooming with yellow flowers, the reporter strikes upon the
idea of accompanying him to his village, at SPIEGEL's expense.
But first Shankar's boss has to
be convinced to give him one or two days off. He agrees, but only under one
condition: Shankar will only be allowed to travel by train, and in the cheapest
class, not by plane. He says that his employee should not be allowed to get
used to a life of luxury.
The intention here is to avoid
blurring the differences between poor and rich. Shankar's family belongs to the
lowest caste of farmers and, to make matters worse, he comes from Nepal, giving
him an even lower status in Indian society.
Part 2:
A Journey Back in Time
Uttar Pardesh is one of the
poorest states in India, and people here are particularly trapped in their
traditional dependency on large landowners. The fragmentation of Indian society
into castes and religions thwarts modernization -- and it prevents India's poor
from jointly rising up against the rich.
Driving through Lucknow, the
capital of Uttar Pradesh, Shankar marvels at the monumental structures that
were built by the former state governor, a woman named Mayawati. She governed
here for nearly two decades before resigning in 2012. Mayawati belongs to the
caste of the "untouchables," and she is an example of how populist
politicians woo the poor -- and disappoint them over and over. Elephants carved
in stone, the symbol of Mayawati's centrist Bahujan Samaj Party (BSP), stand
guard at the gate of a gigantic new park. A few blocks down the street, there
is a statue of Mayawati herself.
It's roughly a four-hour drive
on the highway from Lucknow to Rautpar, Shankar's village near the city of
Gorakhpur. There are straw huts and roadside food stalls on both sides of the
highway. The only signs of India's high-tech ambitions here are the ubiquitous
mobile phone masts that dot the wheat fields. Over 800 million Indians use
mobile phones, yet more than half the population has no access to sanitary
toilets. That corresponds to conditions in the Central African Republic.
Shankar has to travel the last
few hundred meters to his village on foot. A path between fields leads to huts
made of tiles and clay. A crowd of neighbors gathers around him. They see him
as the rich uncle from Delhi.
It's like a return to the
Middle Ages, as nearly everything here is made of clay: the floor, the walls
and the hearth where his sister-in-law cooks outdoors. Mahatma Gandhi would
have approved. After all, it was in India's villages that the legendary freedom
fighter sought a national identity. But his agrarian romanticism still
continues to put the brakes on industrialization.
Shankar unpacks used clothing
from his travel bag and, with a smile on his face, distributes it among his relatives.
For just one moment, he is standing at the center of attention. Most of the
young men here would like to follow his example and move away. However, unlike
China, India has too few factories with low-paid jobs for the rural masses.
Not Poor Enough for Help
Indeed, it is the relatively
well-educated who primarily benefit from the Indian economic miracle: IT
engineers and college graduates who speak fluent English and work in call
centers.
Out in the countryside, though,
the only hope is the National Rural Employment Guarantee Act (NREGA). This 2005
law guarantees every adult in the country 100 hours of paid work every year.
Under NREGA, the government currently pays the country's poor over $7 billion
to improve roads and build bridges. That's better than begging.
Furthermore, India helps its
poor with food rations and other subsidies. But the aid often doesn't reach
those in need. In a bid to cut out corrupt middlemen, the government has been
making money transfers since January. It now directly pays scholarships and
pensions to the accounts of some 245,000 needy individuals in 20 districts.
But what the governing Indian
National Congress party praises as a "pioneering reform" is
criticized by the opposition as a political trick to buy votes in the run-up to
the 2014 parliamentary elections.
In any case, Shankar receives
none of this planned bonanza. His salary is too high to benefit from this
program, but it's still not enough. In fact, he urgently needs to see a doctor
and have a stubborn growth removed from his nose. "It costs roughly 4,000
rupees," he says, "and I don't have that much."
The Limits of Philanthropy
Meanwhile, his rich neighbors
in Panchsheel Park come up with increasingly creative ways to spend their
money. Dijeet Titus, a top Indian lawyer who represents foreign clients, loves
to cruise along the streets of Delhi in his 1957 red Chevrolet Bel Air. In the
southern part of the city, where the local moneyed aristocracy likes to spend
the weekends at lavish country residences, the 48-year-old is building a museum
for his growing collection of vintage cars -- a hangar with over 2,000 square
meters (21,500 square feet) of space.
The luxury neighborhood with
the so-called farmhouses is located on a dusty road. The wealthy residents use
walls and barbed wire to seal themselves off from the misery outside their
villas.
"First, I bought a house,
then a second one, and then I asked myself: What do I buy now?" Titus is
wearing an elegant pair of gold-rimmed glasses as he caresses the shiny grill
of a silver Buick 90L from the 1930s.
By collecting such fine vintage
cars, he has found a hobby that attracts attention even among the affluent of
India. Years ago, Maharajas had themselves chauffeured around in many of these
historic vehicles. Soon, the moneyed aristocracy in today's India will gather
here under palm trees, enjoy cocktails and admire Titus' cars. He has already
collected the appropriate antique furniture and stored it in another section of
the huge hangar.
Like Princess Shahnaz, Titus
thinks of the poor. He occasionally visits slums to help children there receive
a better education. Sometimes he invites them to his home, shows them his
antique cars and delights in the wonder in their eyes.
But Titus admits that even he
can't change India. "My philanthropy is just a drop in the ocean," he
says before walking further and showing off his next vintage car, a 1934
Rolls-Royce 20/25, a particularly impressive example of his exclusive
collection.